So now I'm rollin' down Rodeo with a shotgun. When you re-enter the United States, north-side, after the expanse of Canada, it's in name only. Sure, the currency is the same, the language is the same and

everyone still has a pronounced fascination for firearms, but everything else you can throw out the window.
The people are different here; rugged and strong and proud beyond the hollow fervor of raging nationalism in the Lower 48. Alaskans just want to be left alone. They are a unique breed whose passions are refined in the raw wilderness. Despite their best efforts, the earth is the true controlling force and men merely grab onto its hide to keep from falling away, clutching tufts of fur.
In Alaska, unpredictable tides of primordial power hide behind the alluring wink of lakes and beyond the firm embankments of a thousand unnamed dirt roads. To live like an Alaskan, self-reliance is the key. A keen mind must eternally probe and seek to root out the shortcomings of inexperience and ill-conceived action.
...the poet must, from time to time, travel the logger's path and the Indian's trail, to drink at some new and more bracing fountain of the Muses, far in the recesses of the wilderness. It was here that I came to test myself. To throw down the gloves and shout into the face of the wind, "I can live with you. Twist and bruise my body as you may, but you won't dull my brain, for I've sharpened it on a hundred mountains and spit the dirt from my teeth." Every now and then I've got to knuckle-up, buckle up; chin checkin' it's on, I reckon.
There is no such thing as development here. Purely untamed land stretches from horizon to horizon, separated only by

the thin scar of the Alaska Highway and a few dilapidated settlements. I read somewhere that 98% of the state remains in its natural form. That expanse is chilling and foreboding. Black spruce trees, scrawny and stark, guarded the vast acreage like ancient soldiers as I drove through the swampy Tetlin National Wildlife Refuge to get to the backwards town of Tok. That's pronounced "toke" like the puff on a blunt, not like the sound of a clock.
For two days, I nestled up in Tok to prepare for the apex of my journey, plotting a furious assault into the mountains of Wrangell-St. Elias National Park. But how, really, can one prepare for a trip into a 13,000,000 acre expanse of land, unforgiving to an extreme? Maps are but paper and a crude attempt to make sense of a place that cannot be described nor organized.
On my final night in the town, I drifted into a local bar called the Husky Lounge to shoot some stick and swill a couple of beers. To my surprise, the local contingent was out in force and ready to party. An old jukebox belted out classic rock tunes and the smoky tavern was packed with people eager to make my acquaintance with a friendly demeanor that was settling and natural. Hygiene is not a high concern in Tok and I think the only prerequisite for living here is that you are missing some teeth or an appendage of some sort. Needless to say, the one-armed dude at the pool table beat me three games in a row.
The next day, after three weeks of solid rain and clouds, the sky broke

clear and sunny. Determined to make the best of this fortunate weather, I bolted to
Slana, the entry point of the Park. I pulled together my backcountry gear, an efficient ensemble whose contents I've honed over the last four months. Eight days worth of food added an unexpected bulk to the pack which now hung heavy on my shoulders. With anticipation and fear, I registered my itinerary at the park HQ with the local search and rescue and drifted off into the unknown, bound for the Wrangell Mountains.
Base reality reigned supreme. Why did this place scare me? The land seemed so dark, so untrammeled, so damp. Those who have never seen it have difficulty fathoming this feeling. I now know where wildness lives and I knocked on its door. Swinging the portal open was easy. Crossing the threshold was not.
The hiking in Wrangell is like none I've ever experienced. There were no trails to guide me, only the prominent landmarks, my compass and a map. If Muhammad Ali had the Rumble in the Jungle then this was the Slog in the
Bog. With all the wet weather, snowpack runoff and melting permafrost, the ground is a constant mire of standing water and squishy, damp turf. The going is slow and my feet were never dry. It took me two full days to hike the initial twelve miles to the brilliant rippling gem known as Tanada Lake. Along the way, I hiked in many places where no man has probably ever tread before. But that's only because no man has been so stupid as to come the way I did, right through the heart of the swamp.
To my pure delight, I

saw several moose frolicking in their damp and lush terrain on the first day. To my utter horror, I lost my mosquito repellent through a hole in my pocket on the second. From then on, I had to be diligent with my swatting to keep the blood-sucking beasts at bay.
Once at Tanada Lake, my efforts were rewarded tenfold with views of majesty and I set up camp on the sandy west shore of the lake's perfectly blue expanse. A little grubbage and a gleam into the camera proves my contentment. Yo ho ho and a bottle a Brass Monkey (do I look like a pirate or what?). I sat in the everlasting twilight and watched as a bald eagle flew to his lofty perch and gazed out

on the scene. Separate flocks of loons and ducks honked at me with laughing tones as they preened and splashed.
Throughout my trip, I was very cautious to hang my food in the trees at night and to keep my kitchen many yards away from my sleeping spot. Bear patrol is in full effect. This is, after all, grizzly domain.
In the morning at Tanada, I woke feeling the flex in my thighs and prepared for another two-day hike up Goat Creek to Sheep Lake. Instantly I knew that during the night, I'd not been alone. My pack had been flipped and dragged, though deftly and delicately, and without damage. I had made the mistake of leaving out a water bottle and the

young bear had investigated the enticing container with his mandibles. I now have a useless, plastic sieve to show as a souvenir. The creature's tracks were left as another indelible reminder that my presence here is as a guest only.
After a quiet night next to the milky glacial melt of Goat Creek and another brutal hike through the alders, I arrived at Sheep Lake at the end of the fourth day. De La Rocha style, lookin' for a pillow of solid rock; bathing in the country's aqueducts.
The ground had finally begun to dry out at the higher elevations of the lake and the bog turned from a watery mess to a spongy sod of mosses, fungi, grass and lichen. The high tundra of Alaska is not necessarily easier to walk on

but at least it is dry. I took the chance to create a grubby self-portrait in the late evening twilight.
It is difficult to perceive of a region uninhabited by man. We habitually presume his presence and influence everywhere. And yet we have not seen pure Nature, unless we have seen her thus vast and drear and inhuman. Nature was here something savage and awful, though beautiful. I looked with awe at the ground I trod on, to see what the Powers had made there, the form and fashion and material of their work. This was that Earth of which we have heard, made out of Chaos and Old Night. Here was no man's garden, but the unhandseled globe. It was not lawn, nor pasture, nor mead, nor woodland, nor lea, nor arable, nor waste land. It was the fresh and natural surface of the planet Earth, as it was made forever and ever. It was Matter, vast, terrific.
During the night, I awoke to an odd sound of dripping water. I slunk out of my sleeping bag to investigate. As I scanned the lake, the midnight sun peeked from below the valley and shone its eerie light on the smooth water. With a splash and a whir, something moved down the hill. I watched with my jaw wide open as a moose, with a speedy and elegant stroke,

swam from one bank to the other, his head and antlers silhouetted in the dull glow. It was an enchanting and sublime experience, etched precisely in my mind, which I will never forget until they drop me into my grave.
Day five turned up the vertical heat. Across more tundra I roamed, the ground dusted like snow with a million tiny white flowers. The ground squirrels (pikas?) chirped at me in alarm as I passed their dens. A storm began brewing across the mountains far to the west and I hurried my step, anxious to avoid becoming the lightning's next frizzle fry.
It was vast, Titanic, and such as man never inhabits. Some part of the beholder, even some vital part, seems to escape through the loose grating of his ribs as he ascends. He is more lone than you can imagine. There is less of substantial thought and fair understanding in him than in the plains where men inhabit. His
reason is dispersed and shadowy, more thin and subtile, like the air. Vast, Titanic, inhuman Nature has got him at disadvantage, caught him alone, and pilfers him of some of his divine faculty. Two thousand feet higher and seven miles deeper into the hills, I reached the saddle of an unnamed pass at 5,600 feet. Up on the hill is where you'll find us; up on the hill that shit is timeless. Yeah, up on the hill there ain't no contests; up on the hill, up on the hill. Like a Fun Lovin' Criminal, I stole a picture of my triumph with Mount Gordon looming in the background.
The rain hit with full fury that night at about 2 a.m. My

tent was my sheath and I felt like a castaway alone at sea and riding out the waves. But, in a dreamy haze, the torrent departed as quickly as it had arrived and I wormed out, testing for drops and hoping for the best.
If it could at all be possible, the sixth day of hiking was the best. Though clouds threatened, they never unleashed. On a brisk hike down into the Wait Creek basin, I finally stumbled across the shepherdless flocks of Dall sheep that I had so eagerly hoped to see. They clung to the rocky crags above my vantage point and nervously watched my passage. Fleet and sure of foot were they

and I could not approach them without initiating their flight toward the higher and safer confines high above. I wish the picture would have come out better but essentially each white blob is one or two Dall'ies. In all, on either side of the descending valley through which I walked were several flocks totaling around forty animals.
To top things off that day, about two hours after drifting through sheep country, I witnessed a black bear ambling toward a spruce grove, 200 yards away. He paused twice, gazed at my foreign shape (bears can't see shit) and vanished into the woods. About ten minutes later I started breathing again.
On the seventh day, God rested. But I had to bust my ass trying to get out of the wilderness. Down along Jacksina Creek, an impassible torrent of water, I skirted the forest and underbrush in favor of the more pleasantly hikable sand bars. Just when I thought that I was making some good progress, nature presented me with a brutal barrier that took all of my will and determination to overcome. Cliffs suddenly lined the creek and I was forced to divert my track, hike through another bog, cross a
beaver dam, and ascend a viciously steep ravine to get around. Scrabbling and clawing my way up the near vertical gorge was a nightmare. Decaying trees would break off in my hands and send me sliding backwards until I could arrest the fall. Covered in sweat and dirt an hour later, I finally reached the top, spent like money by the government.
What is this Titan that has possession of me? Talk of mysteries! Think of our life in nature, -- daily to be shown matter, to come in contact with it, -- rocks, trees, wind on our cheeks!
the solid earth! the actual world! the common sense! Contact! Contact! Who are we? where are we? Thank you Henry for putting the world in perspective.
I approached Nabesna, a tiny outpost in Wrangell that was my final destination. The bogs returned, as did swarms of mosquitoes and black flies. Doesn't this sound fun? From the top of a tall, narrow tree, an owl screeched at me, "Don't you wish you could fly, bitch?"
With a feverish look in my eyes, I blazed blindly though a mile-long stretch of alders trying to find an old mining road that would lead me to the finish line. Finally, when I'd almost given up hope of finding it, I burst through the thicket and stumbled into the narrow clearing marking the road. In a flash of relief and exhaustion, I laid down in the track and almost wept for joy.
At the old mining outpost was a mysterious log cabin, decrepit and abandoned-looking. Curious, I crept inside the eerie building, expecting to find a bearded fiend writing out his manifesto next to a few homemade mail bombs. I didn't discover anything interesting except that old Alaskan miners lived in filth. Afraid that I might wake some ornery specter, I left in a hurry.
Finally, eight hours after beginning a five mile hike, I arrived in Nabesna.

It was one of the most exhilarating occurrences in my life. I had made it unscathed through bog, tussocks, bears and streams. For seven days I traveled the wilds of the Alaskan wilderness and seen and done what many others cannot fathom nor understand. I depended on my own hands, feet and cunning to carry me through an ordeal that, for me, was unprecedented. My spirits were soaring. Viva Alaska! Your state has brought perspective to my life. With one last exuberant photo at trail's end, I returned to The Rig.