Tuesday, June 2, 2015

Interview with Mark Flint - A story of the cooperative efforts of the Molalla River Watch (MLW), the BLM and the residents of Oregon to maintain the natural resources of the Molalla River for recreational enjoyment and environmental sustainability. Mr. Flint worked with these groups to organize and carry out this endeavor.

Open Space Foundation (OSF): How did you obtain the land to make this recreation area? (I read somewhere that there was a "land swap")
If so, what was swapped?
Mark Flint (M):  Molalla RiverWatch was formed to protect and improve the quality of the Molalla River and its tributaries. One of the first things MRW did was convince the Bureau of Land Management to trade with private timber companies for a corridor of land on either side of the river. This was accomplished around 1990.
(OSF): How has the land been used in the past? How extensive was the logging?
(M):  The land around the river had been severely abused by logging in the 1960s. This was in the days before there was much awareness of the need to be better stewards of the land, kind of a carryover from when settlers first got there and assumed the supply of trees, salmon and game was inexhaustible. Operators would run bulldozers right up the river during spawning season; trees were felled into the river, sometimes creating log jams that had to be dynamited; clearcuts resulted in heavy sedimentation of the river; "splash dams" were used to transport logs from tributaries to the Molalla. (A splash dam is a dam made in the winter, behind which logs are stockpiled. When the spring freshets come, the damns are dynamited, releasing the logs and a rush of water, scouring everything in their path on the way to the river.) As you can see, the land is recovering nicely.
(OSF): How did people get involved in its preservation for recreation?
(M):  About the time I moved to the area, 1992, the land swaps had been completed. There had been talk about enhancing the recreational use, but no action. Because it had been so devastated, the area wasn't really attractive to the general public. It was a popular area for keggers, four-wheeling and dumping stolen cars. The clientele was not too concerned about their impact, and they discouraged less gentle folk from recreating there. I got involved in MRW and began, with a few other folks, seriously bugging the BLM about getting a trail system. For the first couple of years it was like pushing a ball uphill. We put in a lot of work with not much to show for it. But the BLM was really open and helpful, and once we got that ball over the top, it took on a momentum of its own. Support broadened, we got trailhead improvements and the number of volunteers kept growing, especially as people got out on the trails and realized what an asset they were.Because the trails were not accessible to motor vehicles, vandalism and trash were not a serious problem. As more equestrians and mountain bikers began using the system, more pressure was brought to bear on law enforcement, and the keggers, shooters and trashers found it a less comfortable environment.
(OSF): What have you done to ensure its continued protection?
(M):  MRW works with the BLM as a partner, commenting on management plans and providing volunteers to help with recreation, education and preservation programs.
(OSF): What restorative efforts have been undertaken or are planned?
(M):  In addition to recreation, water quality is a big issue. One long-term goal is to establish a formal campground upriver with toilet facilities. When that is done, camping can legally be abolished along the river.  Another effort has been to close off motor vehicle access to the river. MRW is developing a monitoring system for the river, testing for turbitity and contaminants. In addition, MRW is involving students from local schools in education and habitat/resource preservation. One area, called Aquila Vista, kind of at the south end of where you rode, is being developed as an interpretive area, and the focus of student projects to improve habitat and plant life.
(OSF): Was the river water ever contaminated?
(M):  The river has had motor vehicles dumped into it, and logging equipment and practices resulted in some fuel spillage. The Oregon Forest Practices Act protects streams from pesticides, and there are no sources of industrial pollution in or above the upper river corridor.
(OSF): What groups cooperate to make this public resource possible?
(M):  In addition to MRW, there has been a lot of support from user groups -- the Molalla Saddle Club, Claremont Riders, Oregon Equestrian Trails, Portland United Mountain Pedalers, Merry Cranksters Mountain Bike Club of Salem. The BLM, obviously, has been incredibly supportive. I can't say enough about how easy they were to work with. They'd come out on their days off and help us on projects, gave us more leeway than you would think possible for a government agency, and were a joy to be around -- positive, fun people.
(OSF): Are there other lands similar to Molalla that are being preserved for the public or that are ripe for preservation?
(M):  There are a lot of efforts going on elsewhere in Oregon. Tillamook State Forest has a lot of public/private work going on, and in the City of Portland you have good things happening in Forest Park and Powell Butte Park. But I would have to say Molalla is probably the most comprehensive partnership effort in the state, and one of the most comprehensive in the country. It's gotten national recognition and awards.

Portland Area featuring the Gorge, the Molalla River and Table Rock Wilderness September 2-9, 1999

    Stargazing--communities have lost it.

Land Trusts Work to Preserve Land in Marin County, CA.

   In October of 1999, a coalition of public agencies and private conservation groups announced the purchase of 94 acres along a scenic ridge above Marin City and next to the Golden Gate National Recreation Area. The prime acreage, which boasts magnificent views of Mount Tamalpais and San Francisco Bay, was snatched off a very hot real estate market shortly before developers were slated to build a multiple-unit residential complex on the ridgeline.
    "This purchase protects the land on an interim basis and buys the federal government time to go through its process to be able to purchase it as an addition to the Golden Gate National Recreation Area,'' said Tim Wirth, project manager for the Trust for Public Land, a nationwide conservation group.
    The open space purchase abuts Marin City and will provide city residents with direct access to federally owned parkland and a convenient gateway to explore the Marin headlands.
    "It's going to have tremendous positive impact on that community,'' Wirth said. "It's such a logical addition to the Golden Gate National Recreation Area (GGNRA). It's surprising that the (boundary) line wasn't drawn originally to include it.''
    The steep property is covered with eucalyptus trees and coastal scrub. Although privately owned, it has been used for years by hikers who have carved out trails leading up the ridge from Marin City.  The Keig property was purchased for $2.35 million through a joint effort by the San Francisco-based Trust for Public Land, the Marin County Open Space District and the Marin Community Foundation.  The land trust plans to hold the 94 acres until Congress expands the boundaries of the Golden Gate National Recreation Area and appropriates the land for public purchase. As part of the deal, the trust is vying for $1.18 million in federal Land and Water Conservation Fund money.
    Without the trust's "willingness to purchase and hold this property in advance of a park boundary expansion and federal appropriation, the property would almost certainly have been lost to residential development,'' said GGNRA superintendent Brian O'Neill.
    There have been several attempts to develop the ridgeline, but local residents have resisted them.  The Marin County Open Space District contributed $850,000 in grants and loans to the Keig property purchase, the Marin Community Foundation chipped in $500,000, and the California Coastal Conservancy has awarded the project a $600,000 grant.
    In recent years, the Trust for Public Land has purchased acreage along the eastern shore for the Tomales Bay State Park at Millerton Point as well as protected more than 5,000 acres for the Point Reyes National Seashore and GGNRA. It is also working to revitalize urban parks and playgrounds in San Francisco and Oakland.


Seattle Area Skookum Flats/In the City/Olympic National Park August 21-29, 1999

 Seattle was a haze of couches, traffic and forays into bright green canopy.  Immediately on arrival, accompanied by an elusive spell of sunny, late-summer skies, I made my way to the firm of Fierstad and Lawson.  They're known for hammering through cases, but only of the liquid kind.  Lance and Jeff are two transplants from Montana, tryin' to make it with the city folk.  Their apartment in downtown Seattle was HQ for R&R and Outdoor Adventures.
    Feeling culture shocked with the pace of Seattle, the boys tried to break me in with some pint shoveling at a local Irish pub, followed by a stint in Polly Esthers, a super-cheesy 70's/80's disco joint.  Just flow with the fever on the dance floor.
    The dancing around town may be sweaty but, unfortunately, finding any large pieces of outdoor real estate for biking or hiking requires a drive of at least 30-45 minutes out of the city.  The good news is that with a little extra travel, one can reach dozens of pristine locales that are virtually unrivaled.
    On my second day in town, I bolted out of the city's crush and wove along a black surface of human influence into Snoqualmie National Forest.  If I hear that Smashmouth tune one more time I might drive the Rig off of a fucking cliff.  Hey now, you're an all-star....
    Though it was miles to the south, I reeled in the enveloping presence of Mt. Rainier.  Its massive flanks squat in ponderance of what was and what is to be.
    On one side of me, the White River roiled by, earth jutting up and along its sides, with trees as a bristling hide.  On the other side, darker incarnations of foliage.
    On instinct, errrr...website recommendation, I drove across an ordinary bridge into Skookum Flats.  The "Flats" is dramatic playground in the forest.  It's got a cruising logging-road ascent with a monstrous singletrak return.  Subtle shifts in weight and a dipping front-wheel-folly carried me down a dream-ride only soiled by a 300 yard-long clear-cut section of hillside.  Shannon and Mark, two local riders on the trail that day, urged me onto the finish; but it was the beauty that truly pulled my indefatigable muscles onward.
    Upon completion, I skulked back to the homestead.  The following two days were spent trying to rival the first at other local venues.  Check out a nice photo from a day trip I took into Issaquah, only 17 miles east of Seattle.  Just tah let U know...eazy duz it.
    What's biking got to do with it, though?  Really, overland travel should be paced off on foot, the traditional method.  A man's home is on his back, eh, not cooped up between four walls like a cell.  A cell in the heart, charged with voltage incalculable, breaks the cell of the mind.
    Leaving the Seattle apartment on a Friday, my track sped westward across the Puget Sound on a ferry, next to roads of shoreline and into the depths of wonder.  I entered the eastern-most edge of Olympic National Park, where the cedar grows free.  The heart grows fiercely here, too, and mine was expanded by a two mile hike with a pounding 3,500 foot ascent to Lake Constance.  It was easily the steepest sustained ascent I've ever made.
    In the afternoon, I got a late start onto the trail and in the rapidly cloaking darkness, with a honed LNT bedtime procedure, I made a forced camp on a 2' x 6' patch of mossy earth . It was a fitful night of sleep on the steep hillside among the dripping giants of ancient Washington.
    On the this side of Olympic, you will not see the epiphytes which grow to the rainy west, but the land is still bursting with greenery and moisture.  I pushed onto the trail again early in the morning and walked awestruck across the intermittent snow patches which surrounded the northeast side of the lake.
    Above the lake, the greenery suddenly ended and rocky spires topped off my solo treasure.  I ditched the pack at camp next to the water, hoisted my food into a tree, and struggled up the last 1,000 feet of shale to an accessible peak.  A vista, especially one worked so hard for, never fails to bring perspective to struggle and


This journal entry is under construction.
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Vancouver August 18-20, 1999

 I've lived a rough and tumble existence in the cradle of God.  Since early July, the soft earth of Canada has been my bed and its chilled turquoise puddles my tub.  The open space in British Columbia is so vast as to be unfathomable.  Can you visualize a jar with a million marbles?  Can you imagine one hundred million acres with billion trees?  My eyes have been opened only so that I may realize my own ignorance and insignificance.  I had to leave the cities far behind and go deep into the belly of the wilderness just so that I could balk at the magnitude.  Why it must be that we relegate nature to the hinterland instead of trying to weave it into our communities and living spaces?
    With the wildlands behind me and the gleam of Vancouver in front, I was up to no good with no place to go but down.  And down I came, wild and brazen, out of the untamed and into the urban jungle.  The expanse of Vancouver is characterized by its water and the shadowy stretch of its north shore mountains.  The smell of the harbors is like a damp, murky blanket and a constant reminder of the town's indelible link to the sea.  Or the non-romantic could say it just smells like fish.
    I hooked up with some friends I met in Jasper National Park, Ian and Anna, who had invited me to visit them whenever I should ramble my jalopy into the city by the the straits.  I used their North Vancouver apartment as a base for a variety of forays in the local recreational flavor.  Their hospitality was fantastic.  Thanks, kids!
    During my first day in town, on the recommendation of a bike shop flunkie, I dipped onto the sodden flanks of Lynn Canyon in the Lynn Headwaters Regional Park just north of town.  An old forest road crept up the hillside under a leafy canopy that covered the earth like a circus big top.  The second-growth forest here, while impressive in stature, is but a miniscule echo of its former glory (sadly, the stumps tell the story).
    At the top of the ridge, a misty shroud blocked my view of the city to the south and foiled an attempt to photograph the scene.  Like a pair of swinging doors in a cowboy bar, the undergrowth's branches parted before me and I slunk the bike down a rooty singletrack for a wild descent--maybe a little too wild.  When it comes to wrecks, I'm similar to the Thrilla in Manila; some call me AJ the divot filler.  I was easily in over my head on this difficult terrain and I reached the bottom with two bloody elbows and a lumpy shoulder bruise.
    Ian and Anna helped me forget my wounds with a greasy plate of cod n' chips at a local pub, and afterward I sucked down entirely too many brews at a blues club downtown.  I'm just a baller, shot caller; twenty oz suds ready to swallow.
    The second day was the monster city tour.  With tires loose, I ripped up the shoreline of the city, prowling an impressive labyrinth of paved bike paths.  I crawl like a viper through these suburban streets.  I explored Stanley Park and the beach at Kitsilano.  I stormed Ferguson Point and did my best not to knock down the eerie balanced rocks on the seashore.  It takes a steady hand.
    As cities go, Vancouver is one of the best.  From beautiful beaches to dense forest trails, recreation is close at hand.  Compared to other nearby urban areas like Seattle and Calgary out of which one has to drive at least 45 minutes to escape the sprawl, V-town has kept a (albeit small) portion of its local natural heritage intact and available for public use.
    One organization that is quite active in land preservation in western Canada is The Land Conservancy of British Columbia.  This organization seeks to provide B.C. residents with an opportunity to help protect biodiversity in British Columbia, across Canada, and internationally through the purchase of vital natural areas.  One of TLC's current projects is the effort to preserve the Burns Bog located in greater Vancouver just south of the Fraser River in North Delta.  The total area of the bog is approximately 10,000 acres and is considered the largest domed peat bog on the west coast of the Americas.  The goal of land trusts like TLC is to protect important pieces of property that preserve our natural heritage, maintain an abundance of unique biotic life forms and provide valuable recreational opportunities for us urban folk to partake in.
    I urge you to learn about and support one of the multitude of land trusts in our nation that are making some real headway in maintaining a high quality of life for everyone in an era of rampant development.  10,000 acres here and 10,000 acres there will eventually become a major treasure.  Get out of the city and get in touch with the nature that's worth keeping before you realize that the city no longer has a boundary.
    On my last day in Vancouver, I hit the abundantly popular North Shore attraction called the Grouse Grind.  Throw down the hardware, let's do it right.  Located on Grouse Mountain, the Grind is 2,000 ft. of pure elevation gain in two miles.  I strapped on the leather and sixty minutes later, drenched in sweat and puffin' like a mother, I reached the top.
    Coming down was just a controlled free fall.  Forget the Stairmaster when the Grind is in effect.  Climbing chutes and ladders; while your ego shatters.
    All right!  The weather's perfect, the legs are pumpin and I'm onto Seattle.  Don't touch that dial, fool.  And mark it on your calendar now:   Saturday, September 18 will be the Rig Return party in San Francisco.  Keep the evening free, y'all.  The details will be available soon.

Prince George, Lillooet & Whistler August 12-17, 1999

Driving back from Alaska is hazardous to your rump.  "For the love of God," my ass whimpered, "back away from the vehicle."
    In the stretch of three days, I drove from Tok to Whitehorse and Whitehorse to Prince George.  Never paying for camping, of course.  Stealth master-A has his eye on the poach 24-7.  To poach a campsite, you have to either stay in a fee-site without paying or scope a dirt road for the out-of-the-way forest spot, private land or not.  I prefer the latter poach as it creates a rawer sense of accomplishment than the juvenile Tent-n-Ditch maneuver.
    At Dease Lake in northwestern British Columbia, I tried to work out the driving kinks in a serene Canadian setting (photo).  Been at the wheel a few hours, eh?  Northern British Columbia has an unending stream of luminescent lakes and natural distractions.  What a country!
    Combustication carried me through the miles of dust and gravel. Who's got the key?  Gus.  Gus Johnson got the key.  Medeski can squeeze out a million different haunting arrays of sound, each more brilliant than the last.
    
I arrived in Prince George on a Thursday to slow the roll and splash some more pictures on these pages.  I think that P.G. has more Necks than anywhere else in Canada.  Welcome to the land where Camaros come to die.  I holed up for a couple of nights at a hotel and cleaned off about three weeks of Alaska road scum from my unit.  While in this friendly city, some Neck tried to jack my bike off the car rack but was unsuccessful.  But, they were able to destroy the lock so that even I could not remove it.  It took a hospitable station attendant in Lillooet to drill it out so that I could ride again.  Except for in the wack town of P.G., every Canadian I've met has been extremely friendly and helpful.  It is an attribute of their collective society that is not just a meaningless label or misapplied stereotype.
    I left Prince George and meandered south.  On a whim, I broke me off a little adventure and turned southwest into the dramatic range of the coastal Cadwellder Mountains.  It's like the ocean has rammed the land and butted up the hills into impossibly steep spires.  I've never seen a range of mountains that go vertical so quickly.
    I stumbled into the fresh little town of Lillooet and had to make a break of it.  I had so much fun there, I stayed an extra day.  They have a German bakery in town and I stocked up on a delectable cache of pastries and bread at bargain prices.  The town park was putting on some kind of a local talent show and I bumped over, cinnamon roll in hand & sugar glaze on my face, and sat down to enjoy a few off-key performances and amateur a cappella croonings.
    While in the park, I was fixing my bike's brakes (after having the bike hacked off my roof rack, as I mentioned) and I struck up a conversation with a Lillooet biker named Missagh who offered to give me a short tour of the rolling forest roads along the Fraser River.  Thanks for the tour, buddy!
     The Fraser is a violent, churning stretch of wild mountain water.  Its massive eddys are so huge and deep in some places that fishermen sometimes pull out 400 pound sturgeon from the abyss.  Unfortunately the salmon runs have been decimated from years of overfishing and poor river management and angling is severely restricted.  The fishing industry is always complaining about government imposed restrictions and catch limits.  But what are they fighting for?  The day when there's not a fish left to bring into the boat, I guess.
    Before leaving Lillooet, I partook in an activity which, for me, is completely uncharacteristic.  When it comes to golf, I am the biggest hack on the freaking planet.  I can whack it into the bushes and water traps with precision and I can put a divot in the fairway more efficiently than most people could do with a shovel.  I wanted to hit the pill around in Lillooet, though, because the course is so unique, the price is right ($10 US for a round with rental), and the scenery is like no other.  The sheep pasture golf course is one of the few courses in North America where sheep graze on the fairways and "baaaaaahh" with laughter at the average hack's slices.  I had to plunk a few to show them who's boss.  Averaging triple bogeys, I was like Els with the stick.  That's only if Ernie were blindfolded and shackled, of course.
    To cap off an awesome stay in the mountains north of Vancouver, I left Lillooet and moved a few klicks down the road to Whistler, king of the mountain resorts.  I poached a campsite on an obscure mountain road only five miles from town and spent two days riding the singletrack around the village.  Cut Yer Bars is highly recommended.
    At night, the life was pumpin' at a joynt called The Boot.  The headline was a thick reggae sound out of Calgary called Struggulah.  In a mad Indo haze I boogied down with some local revelers that I met and by 2 a.m., my eyes were swimming.  In a power move, I had a cabbie drive me (don't drink and drive to keep The Rig from crashin') through the woods and some serious offroad shit to get me home.  Only in Canada!

Tok, Alaska & Wrangell-St. Elias National Park OR "Into the Wild" July 30-August 8, 1999 (with quotes in italics from the book The Maine Woods by Henry David Thoreau, which I read during my backpacking trip

So now I'm rollin' down Rodeo with a shotgun.  When you re-enter the United States, north-side, after the expanse of Canada, it's in name only.  Sure, the currency is the same, the language is the same andeveryone still has a pronounced fascination for firearms, but everything else you can throw out the window.
    The people are different here; rugged and strong and proud beyond the hollow fervor of raging nationalism in the Lower 48.  Alaskans just want to be left alone.  They are a unique breed whose passions are refined in the raw wilderness.  Despite their best efforts, the earth is the true controlling force and men merely grab onto its hide to keep from falling away, clutching tufts of fur.
    In Alaska, unpredictable tides of primordial power hide behind the alluring wink of lakes and beyond the firm embankments of a thousand unnamed dirt roads.  To live like an Alaskan, self-reliance is the key.  A keen mind must eternally probe and seek to root out the shortcomings of inexperience and ill-conceived action.
    ...the poet must, from time to time, travel the logger's path and the Indian's trail, to drink at some new and more bracing fountain of the Muses, far in the recesses of the wilderness.  It was here that I came to test myself.   To throw down the gloves and shout into the face of the wind, "I can live with you.  Twist and bruise my body as you may, but you won't dull my brain, for I've sharpened it on a hundred mountains and spit the dirt from my teeth."  Every now and then I've got to knuckle-up, buckle up; chin checkin' it's on, I reckon.
    There is no such thing as development here.  Purely untamed land stretches from horizon to horizon, separated only by the thin scar of the Alaska Highway and a few dilapidated settlements.  I read somewhere that 98% of the state remains in its natural form.  That expanse is chilling and foreboding.  Black spruce trees, scrawny and stark, guarded the vast acreage like ancient soldiers as I drove through the swampy Tetlin National Wildlife Refuge to get to the backwards town of Tok.  That's pronounced "toke" like the puff on a blunt, not like the sound of a clock.
    For two days, I nestled up in Tok to prepare for the apex of my journey, plotting a furious assault into the mountains of Wrangell-St. Elias National Park.  But how, really, can one prepare for a trip into a 13,000,000 acre expanse of land, unforgiving to an extreme?  Maps are but paper and a crude attempt to make sense of a place that cannot be described nor organized.
    On my final night in the town, I drifted into a local bar called the Husky Lounge to shoot some stick and swill a couple of beers.  To my surprise, the local contingent was out in force and ready to party.  An old jukebox belted out classic rock tunes and the smoky tavern was packed with people eager to make my acquaintance with a friendly demeanor that was settling and natural.  Hygiene is not a high concern in Tok and I think the only prerequisite for living here is that you are missing some teeth or an appendage of some sort.  Needless to say, the one-armed dude at the pool table beat me three games in a row.
    The next day, after three weeks of solid rain and clouds, the sky broke clear and sunny.   Determined to make the best of this fortunate weather, I bolted toSlana, the entry point of the Park.  I pulled together my backcountry gear, an efficient ensemble whose contents I've honed over the last four months.  Eight days worth of food added an unexpected bulk to the pack which now hung heavy on my shoulders.  With anticipation and fear, I registered my itinerary at the park HQ with the local search and rescue and drifted off into the unknown, bound for the Wrangell Mountains.
    Base reality reigned supreme.  Why did this place scare me?   The land seemed so dark, so untrammeled, so damp.  Those who have never seen it have difficulty fathoming this feeling.  I now know where wildness lives and I knocked on its door.  Swinging the portal open was easy.  Crossing the threshold was not.
    The hiking in Wrangell is like none I've ever experienced.  There were no trails to guide me, only the prominent landmarks, my compass and a map.  If Muhammad Ali had the Rumble in the Jungle then this was the Slog in the Bog.  With all the wet weather, snowpack runoff and melting permafrost, the ground is a constant mire of standing water and squishy, damp turf.  The going is slow and my feet were never dry.  It took me two full days to hike the initial twelve miles to the brilliant rippling gem known as Tanada Lake.  Along the way, I hiked in many places where no man has probably ever tread before.  But that's only because no man has been so stupid as to come the way I did, right through the heart of the swamp.
    To my pure delight, I saw several moose frolicking in their damp and lush terrain on the first day.  To my utter horror, I lost my mosquito repellent through a hole in my pocket on the second.  From then on, I had to be diligent with my swatting to keep the blood-sucking beasts at bay.
    Once at Tanada Lake, my efforts were rewarded tenfold with views of majesty and I set up camp on the sandy west shore of the lake's perfectly blue expanse.  A little grubbage and a gleam into the camera proves my contentment.  Yo ho ho and a bottle a Brass Monkey (do I look like a pirate or what?).  I sat in the everlasting twilight and watched as a bald eagle flew to his lofty perch and gazed out on the scene.  Separate flocks of loons and ducks honked at me with laughing tones as they preened and splashed.
    Throughout my trip, I was very cautious to hang my food in the trees at night and to keep my kitchen many yards away from my sleeping spot.  Bear patrol is in full effect.  This is, after all, grizzly domain.
    In the morning at Tanada, I woke feeling the flex in my thighs and prepared for another two-day hike up Goat Creek to Sheep Lake.  Instantly I knew that during the night, I'd not been alone.  My pack had been flipped and dragged, though deftly and delicately, and without damage.  I had made the mistake of leaving out a water bottle and the young bear had investigated the enticing container with his mandibles.  I now have a useless, plastic sieve to show as a souvenir.  The creature's tracks were left as another indelible reminder that my presence here is as a guest only.
    After a quiet night next to the milky glacial melt of Goat Creek and another brutal hike through the alders, I arrived at Sheep Lake at the end of the fourth day.   De La Rocha style, lookin' for a pillow of solid rock; bathing in the country's aqueducts.
    The ground had finally begun to dry out at the higher elevations of the lake and the bog turned from a watery mess to a spongy sod of mosses, fungi, grass and lichen.  The high tundra of Alaska is not necessarily easier to walk onbut at least it is dry.  I took the chance to create a grubby self-portrait in the late evening twilight.
   It is difficult to perceive of a region uninhabited by man.  We habitually presume his presence and influence everywhere.  And yet we have not seen pure Nature, unless we have seen her thus vast and drear and inhuman.   Nature was here something savage and awful, though beautiful.  I looked with awe at the ground I trod on, to see what the Powers had made there, the form and fashion and material of their work.  This was that Earth of which we have heard, made out of Chaos and Old Night.  Here was no man's garden, but the unhandseled globe.  It was not lawn, nor pasture, nor mead, nor woodland, nor lea, nor arable, nor waste land.   It was the fresh and natural surface of the planet Earth, as it was made forever and ever.  It was Matter, vast, terrific.
    
During the night, I awoke to an odd sound of dripping water.   I slunk out of my sleeping bag to investigate.  As I scanned the lake, the midnight sun peeked from below the valley and shone its eerie light on the smooth water.  With a splash and a whir, something moved down the hill.  I watched with my jaw wide open as a moose, with a speedy and elegant stroke, swam from one bank to the other, his head and antlers silhouetted in the dull glow.  It was an enchanting and sublime experience, etched precisely in my mind, which I will never forget until they drop me into my grave.
    Day five turned up the vertical heat.  Across more tundra I roamed, the ground dusted like snow with a million tiny white flowers.  The ground squirrels (pikas?) chirped at me in alarm as I passed their dens.  A storm began brewing across the mountains far to the west and I hurried my step, anxious to avoid becoming the lightning's next frizzle fry.
    It was vast, Titanic, and such as man never inhabits.  Some part of the beholder, even some vital part, seems to escape through the loose grating of his ribs as he ascends.   He is more lone than you can imagine.  There is less of substantial thought and fair understanding in him than in the plains where men inhabit.  His reason is dispersed and shadowy, more thin and subtile, like the air.  Vast, Titanic, inhuman Nature has got him at disadvantage, caught him alone, and pilfers him of some of his divine faculty.
    Two thousand feet higher and seven miles deeper into the hills, I reached the saddle of an unnamed pass at 5,600 feet.  Up on the hill is where you'll find us; up on the hill that shit is timeless.  Yeah, up on the hill there ain't no contests; up on the hill, up on the hill.  Like a Fun Lovin' Criminal, I stole a picture of my triumph with Mount Gordon looming in the background.
    The rain hit with full fury that night at about 2 a.m.  My tent was my sheath and I felt like a castaway alone at sea and riding out the waves.  But, in a dreamy haze, the torrent departed as quickly as it had arrived and I wormed out, testing for drops and hoping for the best.
    If it could at all be possible, the sixth day of hiking was the best.  Though clouds threatened, they never unleashed.  On a brisk hike down into the Wait Creek basin, I finally stumbled across the shepherdless flocks of Dall sheep that I had so eagerly hoped to see.  They clung to the rocky crags above my vantage point and nervously watched my passage.  Fleet and sure of foot were they and I could not approach them without initiating their flight toward the higher and safer confines high above.  I wish the picture would have come out better but essentially each white blob is one or two Dall'ies.  In all, on either side of the descending valley through which I walked were several flocks totaling around forty animals.
    To top things off that day, about two hours after drifting through sheep country, I witnessed a black bear ambling toward a spruce grove, 200 yards away.  He paused twice, gazed at my foreign shape (bears can't see shit) and vanished into the woods.  About ten minutes later I started breathing again.
    On the seventh day, God rested.  But I had to bust my ass trying to get out of the wilderness.  Down along Jacksina Creek, an impassible torrent of water, I skirted the forest and underbrush in favor of the more pleasantly hikable sand bars.  Just when I thought that I was making some good progress, nature presented me with a brutal barrier that took all of my will and determination to overcome.  Cliffs suddenly lined the creek and I was forced to divert my track, hike through another bog, cross a beaver dam, and ascend a viciously steep ravine to get around.  Scrabbling and clawing my way up the near vertical gorge was a nightmare.  Decaying trees would break off in my hands and send me sliding backwards until I could arrest the fall.  Covered in sweat and dirt an hour later, I finally reached the top, spent like money by the government.
    What is this Titan that has possession of me?  Talk of mysteries!  Think of our life in nature, -- daily to be shown matter, to come in contact with it, -- rocks, trees, wind on our cheeks!  the solid earth!  the actual world!  the common sense!  Contact!  Contact!  Who are we?  where are we? Thank you Henry for putting the world in perspective.
    I approached Nabesna, a tiny outpost in Wrangell that was my final destination.  The bogs returned, as did swarms of mosquitoes and black flies.   Doesn't this sound fun?  From the top of a tall, narrow tree, an owl screeched at me, "Don't you wish you could fly, bitch?"
    With a feverish look in my eyes, I blazed blindly though a mile-long stretch of alders trying to find an old mining road that would lead me to the finish line.   Finally, when I'd almost given up hope of finding it, I burst through the thicket and stumbled into the narrow clearing marking the road.  In a flash of relief and exhaustion, I laid down in the track and almost wept for joy.
    At the old mining outpost was a mysterious log cabin, decrepit and abandoned-looking.  Curious, I crept inside the eerie building, expecting to find a bearded fiend writing out his manifesto next to a few homemade mail bombs.  I didn't discover anything interesting except that old Alaskan miners lived in filth.  Afraid that I might wake some ornery specter, I left in a hurry.
    Finally, eight hours after beginning a five mile hike, I arrived in Nabesna.  It was one of the most exhilarating occurrences in my life.  I had made it unscathed through bog, tussocks, bears and streams.  For seven days I traveled the wilds of the Alaskan wilderness and seen and done what many others cannot fathom nor understand.   I depended on my own hands, feet and cunning to carry me through an ordeal that, for me, was unprecedented.  My spirits were soaring.  Viva Alaska!  Your state has brought perspective to my life.  With one last exuberant photo at trail's end, I returned to The Rig.