Friday, March 27, 2015

Jackson, WY & Grand Teton National Park June 16-18, 1999

    Coming at Jackson from the west and over Teton Pass gave me some appreciation for the winter driving skills it must take to live here year-round.  I've never seen such a steep grade on a major thoroughfare in my life.  The pass affords a fantastic view of the Jackson "hole", a term used by the settlers to describe a flat prairie range surrounded by large mountains.  The mountains here are, (pause and sigh like Sandler) soooo nice and the biggest of them all is the Grand Teton.  Four jagged ruffians guard the land at Grand Teton National Park with the swagger that comes with their adolescence (in mountain years, of course).  Only two of the four are in the photo.
    I spent a day in Jackson perusing the shops of overpriced "western" gear and tacky knick-knacks.  There was a nice mountain bike trail near town (forget the name) that kept me occupied for a few hours, too.  My favorite place was the Million Dollar Cowboy Bar.  It's maybe not the preferred local hangout but the internal decoration and furnishings make it one-of-a-kind.  There are saddle seats at the bar which face artwork depicting scenes from the area's history.  The handmade pool table lamps poke dingy light through bottles of Cowboy Beer and onto the rare, knotty oak "trim" that softens the room.
    With so much time away from proper folk, my adeptness to the proper rules of social interaction has slipped a little.  I was strolling down the street, all dusty and nappy-haired and, realizing an annoying nasal blockage, I paused and knocked-off a precision "farmer's blow".  It was only the horrified stares from a family of six that made me even aware of my animalistic actions.  Me Sasquatch.  After some around-town shenanigans, I retreated like a bear back over Teton Pass to bed down in the safety of the woods of Targhee.
    Jackson needs to check itself quick.  The town has become fashionable with the wealthy vacation set and land is being snapped up and developed without rhyme or reason.  I think that local residents, who complain to no end about the invasion, need to step up to the plate and take some hacks.  Maybe one of the solutions for Jackson to keep its rural heritage and beauty is to develop an Urban Growth Boundary.  Perhaps there are circumstances there that don't make it a viable option, I don't know.  Cities in Oregon have used UGB's with considerable success in the last fifteen years and selected cities in California have adopted them, results unknown.  If we don't take action now, we'll settle for nothing later.   The Jackson Hole Land Trust has been a powerful force in land preservation and easement creation in the region.   They could use your volunteer support.
    Following my day in Jackson, it was time for some real outdoor activity in one of the most amazing places on earth, the Grand Tetons.  On a hunch and a quest to see some moose and bear, I got a backcountry permit for one night out in Cascade Canyon west of the glacial remnant called Jenny Lake and one night along the Leigh Lake southwest shore.  The pristine eight mile hike to the Cascade South Fork knocks you out your boots and is the only place to get a simultaneous view of the four Tetons from the backside.  Here I am representin' the Giants behind the Grand Teton, 13,770 feet tall.  I was observant and cautious as I hiked, seeking that elusive backcountry wildlife encounter.  One must temper action with wisdom (Omega class, hardcore) and make noise to avoid meeting a bear, possibly a grizzly, on uncomfortable terms.
    The last two miles was a plod through spring snow, wet but passable.  I spied an ideal sheltered rock platform that had weaseled its way out of winter.  Enjoying the delicacies of mac 'n cheese, I sat from my perch and watched as thunderheads began gathering force over the valleys and peaks.  Night fell and I entered the womb-like safety of my solo tent.  Getting into this thing is like being slowly swallowed by a boa.
    At about 2 a.m., the skies erupted with the funk and fury of the mountains.  Lightning illuminated the fabric like sunbursts and the blasts of thunder and rain rumbled the resonant rock.  Stay with me under these waves tonight; be free for once in your life tonight.
    In the morning, the sun fought its way back to radiant influence and brought out my buddies in the hills.  Yellow-bellied marmots scampered among the rocks and came to lick the salt from the trail-earned rings of sweat on my pack.  This one, the bravest of the bunch had none of the usual golden fur.  All that was missing was the Caddyshack soundtrack.
    Leaving camp to retrace my steps down the steep and snowy canyon was the perfect opportunity to do some "schussing".  Sliding on your boots with a full pack can build up a thrilling downhill pace pretty quickly.  I skied and rambled my way to the serenity of Leigh Lake.  No moose yet.
    During a second full day in the park, I ducked in and out of cloudbursts and explored the woods west of the lake.  From the park brochure, I learned about the Teton's tremendous formation by seismic upheaval, glacial carving and persistent erosion.  From my explorations, I was able to appreciate the tremendous powers that can both smash stone and support the most delicate of life.
    Small herds of bison and elk paraded through some of the fertile meadows near the road.  I headed north.  With a proud split-image on a perfectly calm pond, the Teton Range herded me into Yellowstone National Park.

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